June 18, 2003
by James Solheim

"In the midst of devastating situations of poverty, HIV/AIDS with all its attendant consequences, armed conflict and the abduction of children, this heroic church remains faithful and perseveres," said Presiding Bishop Frank T. Griswold in a letter to bishops following a week-long visit to Anglicans in Uganda.

The visit came at the invitation of Archbishop Livingston Mpalanyi-Nkoyoyo, primate of the Church of the Province of Uganda, and was timed to coincide with the celebration of the Feast of the Martyrs of Uganda on June 3, a national holiday. A crowd estimated at 800,000 people flowed like a human river to the site of the martyrdom at the Roman Catholic and Anglican shrines at Numugongo east of the capital city of Kampala.

Nkoyoyo welcomed the crowd of several thousand on the hillsides near the actual site where 22 Christian pages in the court of King Mwanga of Buganda were wrapped in reed mats and roasted alive in 1886 for their refusal to renounce their faith and swear allegiance to him and submit to his sexual advances. According to witnesses, the youth went to their deaths singing and praising the Lord.

The occasion marked a major turnaround for the church, changing the perception of Christianity as a white man's religion to one that was truly African. Today Uganda has the largest percentage of professed Christians of any nation in Africa.

"The blood of martyrs is the seed of the church," the archbishop reminded the crowds - even today. He introduced the widow and children of his predecessor, Archbishop Janani Luwum, who was martyred by the dictator Idi Amin in 1977. The service was planned to honor all the church's martyrs, including those being martyred on a daily basis in the war-torn northern part of the country.

Grace and endurance

In his sermon at the four-hour Anglican service, Griswold said that the Ugandan martyrs were on the calendar of saints in the Episcopal Church in the USA. He talked of the heroic witness of the church to the power of the Holy Spirit, "giving grace and endurance even to this day in difficult conditions." Listening to the stories of struggle to be faithful in Uganda was "an inspiration that has strengthened our souls, seeing how the church is reaching out in ways that shows in a very real way the compassion of Christ."

During an overnight stop in London on his way to Uganda, he said that he took an early morning walk to Westminster Abbey where he saw the statue of Luwum on the fagade of the church, with other 20th century martyrs.

The service was an adventurous blend of elements, part Anglican, part enthusiastic African Pentecostalism with a great deal of singing and dancing. Griswold was escorted to the podium, for example, by a hundred women from the Mothers Union and Daughters of the King, singing and dancing their way across the lawn. Also, following the sermon, the archbishop introduced an evangelist who spent almost an hour deploring the corruption in the nation, with Prime Minister Apollo Nsibambi sitting a few feet away.

The prime minister had the last word, pointing out that the martyrs "paid the highest price for their principles. They had absolute faith in God." He wondered how many Ugandans today had that kind of faith. He also expressed the hope that one day the Anglicans and Roman Catholics could hold a joint service to honor the martyrs.

The message of reconciliation

Griswold, his wife Phoebe, and several staff members were welcomed May 28 to Uganda in a service at St. Mark's Church near the airport at Entebbe, on the shores of Lake Victoria. In what would be one of the few references to the sexuality controversies in the Anglican Communion, the retired bishop of Namirembe, Wilson Mtebi, said with a smile that they would encounter a church that "does not permit any deviation from Scripture," one that stands on the resolutions passed at the Lambeth Conference of 1998 condemning practice.

In response, Griswold said that he came as a brother. "I expect to be surprised and I'm also prepared to answer any questions about the U.S. and the church." That opportunity came at a meeting with the Uganda Joint Christian Council where he made his first presentation. A lay theologian described a nation riven with ethnic conflict and politics, torn between north and south, between the Acholi and Bugandan tribes. Those divisions are also apparent in the church," he said, charging that the church was indifferent and insensitive to the martyrdom of Luwum, who was "loved abroad but forgotten at home" because he was an Acholi from the north.

In his address, Griswold talked about the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, and how "the effect was to teach us in the U.S. that we are vulnerable - a lesson hard to bear. In that moment we joined the world community where suffering and violent death are a daily reality." In a subsequent letter to the primates of the Anglican Communion, he said that "this is a moment in which the U.S. might see ourselves differently and must ask about our relation with the rest of the world, examining our politics in light of world suffering. The fundamental message," Griswold said, "is one of reconciliation. How can we as a nation seek to be an instrument of reconciliation." A number of the church leaders present at the meeting expressed deep appreciation for the comments and gratitude that "the developing world has allies in the West."

Hope for the future

The party visited a rural development project supported by Episcopal Relief and Development where a widow had created a five-acre compound with cattle and a few crops, enough to support her family. In a service at the cathedral in Mityana, Griswold noted that "in many parts of Africa rural life is collapsing" so he was encouraged see concrete examples of progress. He also thanked the people of the diocese for giving the Episcopal Church Benjamin Musoke-Lubega, a Ugandan who is the church's partnership officer for Africa - who had been ordained in the cathedral.

The province's highly respected and very effective department of Planning, Development and Rehabilitation (PDR) has gone right down to the local level, working with the people to determine the needs and the resources available - and providing glimmers of hope for the future. "Anglicanism is a people church so ordinary people hold the key," said the Rev. Tom Tuma, director of PDR. "Our emphasis is on quality of life at the local level. If peole are poor, the church is poor. We must play our part, make our contribution."

Tuma is convinced that the church "should not run away from the immense obstacles. The greater the obstacles the greater the determination to overcome them. And small results provide motivation for us," he said with an enthusiasm that has attracted international donors - including Episcopal Relief and Development - to PDR's projects.

Chilling stories from the north

One of the most sobering conversations during the trip was a session with the bishops of Northern Uganda and Kitgum who told chilling stories of what 17 years of war had done to their people. Expressing disappointment that the security situation had prevented a visit by the presiding bishop and his party to the north, Bishop Nelson Onono-Oweng of Gulu described how "traumatized" people were with hundreds of thousands reduced to waiting for the war to end in squalid camps. "I don't know how many will survive."

Under those conditions HIV/AIDS had become a major problem, creating thousands of orphans. He said that two-thirds of the people were living in desperate poverty, twice the level in the rest of the country. About 80 percent of those who go to the hospitals are HIV positive. "The American government could make a big difference," they said, "but we sometimes wonder if the U.S. even knows that we exist."

A group of Daughters of the King, a part of the delegation from the north, described the suffering of women caught in the violence and dislocation, trying to hold their families together. Thousands of children are being abducted and trained as "killing machines" for the Lord's Resistance Army, the main rebel faction. (According to a recent Human Rights Watch Report, a record 5,000 children have been abducted in the region in the last year.)

The bishop and his delegation said that the situation was compounded because of their isolation. They have no links with the outside church and feel forgotten. In response, Griswold said that he found their testimony "an incredible sign of God's grace" and reported that the Episcopal Church has been involved in efforts to affect legislation to alleviate the situation - including the testimony of a bishop before a congressional committee.

[The Episcopal Church's Office of Government Relations has joined other advocates to press for diplomatic and humanitarian assistance, proposing legislation for conflict prevention and reconciliation programs in the Acholi region and aid for the growing number of those internally displaced. Jere Skipper, the international policy analyst in the office, said that the bill recognizes the important work of peacemakers, such as the interfaith Acholi Leaders Peace Initiative, to bring the warring parties together and seek a peaceful solution. She expects action on the bill before Congress takes its summer break.]

Later the bishop would describe life in the north where "the nights are long - and dangerous." He told the story of his life being threatened by a young rebel on a path near a village - and recognizing him as someone he had confirmed.

'Life must go on'

The delegation from Kitgum said that their situation was in many ways worse because they are located on the border with the Sudan. "We are isolated by the violence, even from other Ugandans," said Bishop Benjamin Ojwang. Luwum's grave and a school named for him are located in his diocese. In a memorandum prepared for the discussion, the delegation pointed out that 90 percent of the people in the region are living in camps that are often raided by the rebels who seize children to serve as soldiers. "The U.S. can stop the war. You must become our voice," they pleaded.

Representatives of the Mothers Union described a complete moral breakdown in the camps. Rebels abduct children between the ages of nine and 13, sometimes forcing mothers to kill their own children when they try to resist. Some of the women are forced into prostitution to save their children. Clergy are also confined to the camps and are just as vulnerable as the rest of the people, the delegation reported. "We can't wait for the war to end," said one participant. "Life must go on."

Deeply moved by their stories, Phoebe Griswold promised to take their story back to America. "Your story needs to be told, especially your struggle to survive."

US Ambassador Jimmy Klocker verified the horrific stories, praising the church for its peace efforts and its "resilience." He said that the church in the north is the only institution holding society together. But he warned that the situation was not getting any better, largely because the Lord's Resistance Army doesn't seem to have a political agenda that would open a path for negotiation, other than trying to replace the present government with a theocracy based on the Ten Commandments. He said that the people are actually being terrorized by both the rebels and the government troops. In the long-term tension between north and south the northerners don't relate well to the government in Kampala and feel that they have been neglected and persecuted - a perception that must be addressed before there can be reconciliation, he said.

The ambassador estimated that there may be as many as a million people internally displaced. "We need to be ready when the war ends to move into redeveloping the region," he said. "It's a very religious country and many programs have been initiated by the churches and the NGOs." He noted their participation in the fight against HIV/AIDS, now being used as a model, with its emphasis on abstinence, faithfulness in relationships and the use of condoms. He gave substantial credit for the program's effectiveness to President Yoweri Museveni, who was welcomed to the White House June 10 and honored for his "extraordinary leadership." An estimated five percent of the population is now infected, compared with 15 percent a decade ago.

Uganda will also benefit from the Bush Administration's HIV/AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria Act of 2003, "the largest single up-front commitment in history for an international public health initiative involving a specific disease," according to President George W. Bush.

The party visited the Archbishop Carey Regional Resource Centre for AIDS, named for the former archbishop of Canterbury, opened by him during a visit in 1998. Bishop Samuel Ssekkadde of Namirembe, who had just returned from an international conference on AIDS in Germany, has been a tireless advocate for the church's role in fighting the pandemic.

The centre mobilizes efforts by the church, offers information and documentation, provides advocacy for those affected and infected, as well as training for those living with HIV/AIDS. During a ceremony, Griswold described his experience as a care-giver for someone living with AIDS when he was the bishop in Chicago - an experience that led to a commitment to join the fight against the disease. "We will not stop our efforts - ever," he said.

Sharing realities during a retreat

In a day-long retreat with bishops of the Ugandan church and their wives, both Griswolds shared their spiritual journeys. He talked about "how I have been shaped and formed by Christ over the years," admitting that "sometimes the seed grows slowly." Although he was baptized, "there were no signs of fruit in the early years."

At boarding school he was fascinated with the complexity of the worship rituals as he sang in the choir - and was confirmed at the age of 15. Yet he expressed shock when a roommate reported that a priest at the school thought that Griswold should be a priest. Describing it as a "laughing annunciation," it finally dawned on him that the priesthood might indeed be a vocation.

"Faith is a constant search and exploration," said Phoebe in describing her own spiritual journey. It has been a challenge, over the years, to find her own voice, as a woman, one who nurtures others. She developed a deep concern for children and the hungry, adding that "Frank allows and encourages my spirit to flourish."

Griswold said during one session that he is concerned that, in the United States, "we have too many resources and not enough spirit." The question, he said, is how we can share one another's burdens. When asked about divisions in the church, he said that "at some fundamental level all things have already been reconciled through Christ so the question becomes what are the barriers to recognizing what God has done." He added, "I have to trust that God can put the pieces together. That gives me some hope, confidence and courage. God's time is different so I try not to be dispirited by the divisions we are living with." He warned them to watch out for rumors that create mistrust because "that is the Evil One at work."

During a discussion after Griswold's meditations on the role of bishops, several bishops confessed that they were feeling completely inadequate in the face of the HIV/AIDS pandemic. They also said that it was the first time they had met as bishops without a business agenda - and how important it was to develop a new sense of collegiality and support for one another. "It was very important time with the bishops in the context of prayer and retreat where they shared the Scripture of their lives - the unfailing and absolute power of the Gospel," Griswold said later.

Wives of bishops have clear vision

In a separate meeting with the wives of the bishops, Phoebe said that "despite the poverty and AIDS, they have a very clear vision of their roles," even if they find it daunting. A bishop's home is open all day and it is not unusual to wake in the morning to find people standing outside expecting breakfast. Widows and children sometimes show up looking for a place to stay. "They constantly share whatever they have - and they pray and pray with the people," she said. Despite the obvious frustrations in trying to meet these needs and expectations, "they look to Scripture for strength."

Leadership was cited as a major issue for the church in Uganda. In the past, Bishop Tucker College prepared many of the clergy and now, since it became Uganda Christian University in 1997, that role has been expanded. Griswold noted that "the vision of a thriving university has been close to the archbishop's heart."

The Rev. Stephen Noll, an American volunteer for mission who is serving as vice chancellor of the university, said that there are now 136 students studying theology, between 20 and 25 of them are women. The university has also developed a program for theology by extension, available to hundreds of students spread throughout eastern Africa. "People seldom think of higher education as mission," said Noll. "But I've seen a growth of mission awareness."

Tribalism a nagging issue

It was apparent from conversations with church leaders that they face immense challenges in the future. Neither the church nor the nation are unified. "We speak many languages - and our ethnicity leads to more tribalism," said the Rev. Stanley Ntigali, secretary of the province who was instrumental in arranging details of the visit.

He added that "tribalism knows no boundaries," often interfering with the election of bishops. In one extreme case, a bishop was improperly involved in the election of his successor and, as a result, many in the diocese moved to prevent the consecration of his successor. The archbishop was forced to delay the consecration because of security threats. The matter is now in the courts as one faction sued the archbishop, trying to force the consecration to proceed. The house of bishops has postponed the consecration indefinitely, seeking reconciliation. With two dioceses vacant, the election of a new archbishop this fall is also uncertain.

Ntigali said that "poverty remains a huge problem with a majority still very poor - as high as 90 percent in many rural areas where there is no health care, no clean water, and a poor infrastructure." Economic conditions are complicating church life. Most clergy never receive their full salary of about $100 a month and must supplement their income. That makes recruitment very difficult. Yet women clergy "are doing very well. We have 83 ordained women and value their ministry very much."

Understanding of HIV/AIDS is "still low in villages where there is tremendous ignorance. It is creating many orphans and family structures are crumbling. The church doesn't have many ways of handling such enormous problems."

Ntigali said that he has lost two brothers to AIDS and has taken in their children, adding them to his own five children. "Every family is affected and the problems seem beyond control, beyond the church's ability to help." Yet he said that the church has "started to talk about the dangers, preaching about them, teaching awareness. And it has made a huge difference."

Praying for peace

The Rev. Hellen Oneka, one of the first women ordained in the church and now director of Mothers Union for the province, works with women in the villages, training them in health care and child care, promoting morality during visits to schools. She also promotes agriculture in an effort to support AIDS orphans in what she describes as "a very difficult situation." Everyone gets involved, she said, revealing that she has 20 children who depend on her for support.

Oneka had just returned from a visit to the north where she saw people hiding and sleeping in the bush out of fear of attack. "You see the situation and you just cry. There are thousands jammed together in camps with no food, under constant attack by rebels. Women are sometimes raped in front of their children. It is too much," she said with a deep and weary sadness. "If the war would end people could return to their homes and put their lives back together." During the trip she was held at gunpoint four times but, since she is from the area and speaks the language, it probably saved her life. "Our prayer is that the war ends."

At the end of the trip, Griswold said that one of the most moving visits had been to the archbishop's retirement home to meet 65 street children and orphans who were living there while the church builds a new village for them nearby. That kind of desire and determination to do something to address a desperate need "is at the very heart and soul of the church in Uganda."

Episcopal News Service
James Solheim is director of Episcopal News Service and was a staff member on the visit to Uganda.